The New York Times has turned its attention to the rich culinary traditions of Montes de María, highlighting the work of chefs who create fine dining dishes with agroecological ingredients that carry the quality, care and flavors of the region’s farming families.
Sambal, a restaurant located in Getsemaní, brings this tradition to the table through its cuisine. The restaurant combines the philosophy of the Slow Food movement with the principles of Zero-Kilometer cuisine, reflecting a genuine commitment to local ingredients and sustainability while placing the flavors of the land at the heart of fine dining.
This recognition celebrates not only culinary innovation, but also the dedication and passion of those working to preserve and promote the richness of their region.
From Slow Food to Zero-Kilometer Cuisine
The Slow Food movement originated in Italy. It was founded by Carlo Petrini in 1986 in response to the growth of fast food and the standardization of taste. Its purpose is to preserve regional culinary diversity while promoting sustainable agriculture, biodiversity and social justice within the food system.
The idea is to enjoy high-quality food that has been produced sustainably and to take the time to truly appreciate every dish. The movement also encourages a closer connection between producers and consumers by supporting local farmers and artisanal production.
The concept of Zero-Kilometer cuisine is a natural extension of the Slow Food philosophy. It involves using food grown or produced as close as possible to where it is consumed, generally within a 100-kilometer radius.
This helps reduce the carbon footprint associated with food transportation. It also benefits the environment, provides fresher ingredients and supports local economies.
The aim is to choose locally sourced products with short supply chains. Restaurants that follow this approach seek to raise awareness of and protect local farming communities while encouraging the consumption of natural foods produced through environmentally responsible methods.
Using crops grown by farmers from Montes de María aligns with this philosophy and with the Sustainable Development Goals. This approach has now been recognized by internationally renowned media outlets such as The New York Times.
From the Farm to Fine Dining
Haute cuisine is the French term for what is known as fine dining. This culinary movement helped elevate cooking into an art form, which is precisely what a group of entrepreneurs is working to promote in Cartagena.
Jaris Julio Díaz works in the culinary industry. Together with chefs Jaime Galindo Cuervo and Jonatan Galindo Cuervo, she has created fine dining dishes using ingredients brought from Montes de María. Their work requires considerable effort in both farming and transportation, but the result is a collection of remarkable flavors for locals and visitors alike.
“This project began seven years ago. I am originally from Montes de María and grew up surrounded by yams, beans, corn, sweet potatoes and many other flavors. I decided to bring these products into the homes of people throughout Cartagena by creating a market. Our distribution network became so strong that, during the pandemic, restaurants and hotels began calling us to order the products my father grows so far away,” Jaris Julio shared.
She explains that starting from scratch was far from easy, but the project gradually began to take shape.
“We improved our presentation and distribution while restoring the livelihoods of more than 100 families who are part of our agroecological market. My husband, who is a chef, his brother and I sat down to discuss how we could turn our products into part of a circular economy and enhance their value through processes that would transform them into fine dining dishes. That is how all our dishes began to emerge,” explained the Montes de María native, who now operates Sambal restaurant in Cartagena.
This group of entrepreneurs has built the business around agroecological ingredients infused with the quality, care and flavors of every farming family in Montes de María. They even make their own tamarind and corozo sodas.
The New York Times Has Recognized Their Work
Several dishes from this culinary concept were featured in a recent article by The New York Times, including the oxtail tacos and ceviche topped with crispy squid.
One of the restaurant’s signature dishes is a ceviche made with leche de tigre, pink sweet potato, root vegetables, cilantro, fish and crispy squid. It is a cold dish with flavors rooted in the countryside, creating an experience that would be difficult to achieve with other ingredients.
The Galindo Cuervo brothers have also created desserts using cacao, hibiscus, sugarcane spirit and edible Flor de Mayo blossoms. Some of the flowers are supplied by the Granitos de Paz Foundation and grown in Cartagena’s Olaya Herrera neighborhood.
“Montes de María carries painful stories that are difficult to tell. Violence devastated most of the towns and rural communities across the region, both in Sucre and Bolívar. We are doing everything we can to reinvent ourselves and bring those flavors to Cartagena, and what better way to do it than through fine dining? These are flavors that international visitors and locals will remember: yam crisps, popocho flour, soursop cheesecake, chili peppers and the sauces of my homeland,” Jaris Julio concluded.
Source: donde.co
